I recently had to help my future son-in-law purchase an engagement ring for my daughter. We started looking without much knowledge about buying diamonds and almost bought one right away. I'm so glad my son-in-law didn't go through with the initial purchase because, kind of by accident, I stumbled upon a diamond Reddit board. After reading post after post about oval diamonds I knew our quest was going to be a lot harder. Here's all the pertinent information I learned after countless hours of research.
The journey to finding the perfect oval diamond is an exhilarating one, but my number one piece of advise is, unless you are friends with a jeweler, BUY ONLINE. The days of going into stores are over. Purchasing a diamond online offers a multitude of advantages that make it the better choice. The online diamond market provides access to a vast selection of diamonds, allowing you to explore a wide range of options from the comfort of your own home. This eliminates the need to visit multiple physical stores and provides a broader spectrum of choices in terms of cut, color, clarity, and carat weight. Additionally, online platforms often offer detailed information about each diamond, including certification, ratings, and high-quality images and videos, empowering you to make an informed decision. The competitive online market also tends to offer more competitive prices due to lower overhead costs, ensuring better value for your investment. In addition, these online sellers have a wide selection of settings and competitive pricing buying the band and stone together. With the convenience of comparison tools, reviews, and expert guidance readily available online, purchasing a diamond through reputable online retailers provides a seamless and transparent experience that streamlines the process of finding the perfect gem for your special occasion. Oval diamonds, renowned for their timeless charm and modern sophistication, have an innate ability to captivate and enchant. This rest of this guide aims to navigate the intricate path of selecting the best quality oval diamond, examining everything from ideal dimensions to diamond rating systems. We will also delve deeper into the complexities of fluorescence and the nuanced considerations when choosing the right carat weight. I knew nothing about fluorescence in the beginning but it turns out my daughter could see fluorescence where the rest of us could not. As you embark on this voyage, you'll be empowered to make an informed decision that ensures your oval diamond resonates with your unique vision.
Part 1: The Ideal Dimensions of an Oval Diamond
An oval diamond's allure is intrinsically tied to its proportions. I did not know this and the diamond my son-in-law almost purchased had less than ideal proportions. It also had something called a bow tie effect which is something most oval diamonds have. It is vitally important to avoid oval diamonds with obvious bow ties. The "bow tie effect" is a term used to describe a dark, bow tie-shaped area that can appear in the center of an oval-cut diamond when it's viewed face-up. This effect occurs due to the diamond's specific proportions and the way light interacts with the stone. When light enters an oval diamond and doesn't properly reflect back to the viewer's eye, a shadowy area resembling a bow tie becomes visible. The bow tie effect is more pronounced in oval diamonds with certain depth and pavilion angle combinations. Diamonds with overly shallow or deep pavilions, or those with unevenly distributed facets, are more susceptible to this phenomenon. However, it's important to note that not all oval diamonds exhibit a noticeable bow tie effect, as it depends on the diamond's individual cut and proportions.
When selecting an oval diamond, it's advisable to examine it in person or through images to assess whether a bow tie effect is present. A well-cut oval diamond with balanced proportions will often minimize or eliminate the bow tie effect, ensuring optimal light performance and overall visual appeal.
While doing my research I looked at the GIA Certificate, which has the proportions on it and learned that most of this diamonds carat weight was in the depth of it where it wouldn't be seen. For more information on how to decipher a GIA certificate check out my previous post here. This made the diamond look smaller than it actually was. While personal preferences are paramount, certain dimensions contribute to the overall brilliance and aesthetics of the stone.
Length-to-Width Ratio: The length-to-width ratio is a defining characteristic of the oval diamond's shape. The ideal range falls between 1.35 and 1.50, with the classic ratio of 1.40 being a popular choice. This range ensures that the diamond retains its distinctive elongated form without appearing too stretched or too round, thus striking a harmonious balance.
Table Percentage: The table percentage refers to the width of the diamond's top facet compared to its overall diameter. Optimal table percentages range from 53% to 63%. This balance allows light to reflect and refract properly within the diamond, enhancing its brilliance and sparkle.
Depth Percentage: The depth percentage signifies the diamond's depth relative to its width. The ideal depth percentage falls within the 58% to 62% range. This equilibrium ensures optimal light dispersion and visual appeal, creating a harmonious play of light and shadow within the stone.
Make sure to stay as close as possible to these ratios or the visual carat weight will look smaller than the actual carat weight. If the diamond is too shallow it may look bigger but it won't reflect light properly.
Part 2: Diamond Rating Systems: The 4Cs and Beyond
Understanding the intricate web of diamond rating systems is essential for evaluating the quality and value of an oval diamond. The 4Cs—carat weight, color, clarity, and cut—form the foundation of these systems.
Carat Weight: Carat weight dictates the size of the diamond and holds personal significance. While it's tempting to prioritize size, consider the interplay of carat weight with other factors. Opting for diamonds slightly below whole carat weights (e.g., 0.90 carats) can maximize value without compromising appearance and quality.
Color: Diamond color rating is an integral aspect of assessing a diamond's quality and worth. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) employs a scale that spans from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown) to classify a diamond's color. This gradation allows diamonds to be grouped into categories based on the presence of color. At the upper end of the scale, diamonds within the D, E, and F groups are considered colorless and exude exceptional brilliance. Moving along the scale, diamonds in the G, H, I, and J groups appear nearly colorless to the unaided eye and present a splendid balance of value and aesthetics. As the scale progresses into the K, L, and M groups, subtle hints of color emerge, lending uniqueness to each stone. Beyond the M group, diamonds display increasing levels of color. It's important to note that diamond color is often nuanced and may be more discernible when compared side by side. Ultimately, the selection of the ideal diamond color depends on individual preferences, intended setting, and desired overall aesthetic, ensuring a perfect harmony between the gem and the adornment it graces. Oval diamonds manifest color uniquely due to their shape. For maximum visual impact, aim for color grades between F and H. This range minimizes the visibility of color nuances, ensuring the diamond appears beautifully white against the metal of the setting.
Clarity: Oval diamonds possess the remarkable ability to mask imperfections due to their brilliance. While clarity remains important, select diamonds with clarity grades between VS1 and VS2. This range offers exceptional value without compromising on visual appeal.
Cut: Cut stands as the cornerstone of an oval diamond's beauty. Prioritize diamonds with Very Good or Excellent cut grades. A well-proportioned cut maximizes light reflection, ensuring that the diamond sparkles with unparalleled brilliance. Again, we opted for an Excellent cut.
Part 3: Navigating Fluorescence and Diamond Appearance
Fluorescence, a characteristic that isn't captured by the 4Cs, warrants its own consideration. It refers to a diamond's reaction to ultraviolet light, causing it to emit a visible glow. Diamonds with faint to medium fluorescence can enhance a diamond's appearance, making it appear whiter and brighter. However, strong fluorescence can cause a diamond to appear milky or hazy, detracting from its transparency.
Part 4: The Intricacies of Carat Weight and Value
Selecting the right carat weight requires a careful balance between personal preferences and value. Here's what to consider:
Value and Carat Weight: Carat weight significantly impacts a diamond's cost, making it a crucial consideration. Smaller carat weights offer better value, allowing you to invest in other quality aspects like cut and clarity. A diamond slightly below a whole carat can represent exceptional value without compromising on appearance.
Compromises to Consider: To maximize value without compromising on appearance, consider making compromises in the color and clarity departments. A well-cut oval diamond can mask slight color and clarity imperfections, enabling you to opt for slightly lower grades without sacrificing aesthetics. Personally I think the color is important so I would go with a
Non-Negotiable Aspects: There are aspects of diamond quality that should not be compromised. A diamond's cut is paramount, as a well-cut stone ensures brilliance and visual appeal. We ended up going with an excellent cut.
Part 5: Diamond rating systems, such as those established by renowned organizations like the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), provide comprehensive frameworks for evaluating the quality and characteristics of diamonds. These systems consider various factors that impact a diamond's overall value and visual appeal. Let's delve into the primary rating systems and their key components:
GIA (Gemological Institute of America): GIA is a globally recognized authority in diamond grading. Its rating system revolves around the "4Cs": Carat Weight, Color, Clarity, and Cut. GIA is the gold standard in rating systems and I recommend buying a diamond that is GIA rated. The GIA certificate will follow the diamond and is known as the best rating system. The diamond my son-in-law purchased was GIA rated.
AGS (American Gem Society): AGS also uses the 4Cs, but its Cut grading is more detailed. AGS evaluates cut using the Angular Spectrum Evaluation Tool (ASET), which analyzes light performance.
IGI (International Gemological Institute): IGI assesses the 4Cs, along with additional information on symmetry, fluorescence, and proportions.
EGL (European Gemological Laboratory): EGL evaluates the 4Cs and is known for potentially offering more lenient grading compared to GIA or AGS.
HRD (Hoge Raad voor Diamant): This Belgian laboratory rates diamonds on the 4Cs, often adhering to stringent standards.
Other Laboratories: There are numerous other diamond grading laboratories, but GIA and AGS are considered the most reliable due to their consistency and stringent grading practices.
It's essential to note that diamonds with the same rating might still look different due to subtle nuances in their characteristics. When purchasing a diamond, consider getting a certified stone with a detailed grading report from a reputable laboratory. This report offers an objective evaluation of the diamond's quality and serves as a valuable reference for making an informed purchase decision.
Part 6: The rating system for inclusions is a fundamental component of diamond grading that evaluates the presence of internal and external flaws within a diamond. These flaws are referred to as inclusions and blemishes, respectively. To learn more about the different types of inclusions and how they affect the diamond check out my previous post on inclusions here. The clarity grade assigned to a diamond provides valuable insights into the visibility and impact of these imperfections. Let's explore the key aspects of the inclusion rating system:
Flawless (FL) and Internally Flawless (IF): Diamonds in these categories have no internal or external imperfections visible under 10x magnification. FL diamonds are free from both inclusions and blemishes, while IF diamonds have no internal inclusions but might possess minor external blemishes.
Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2): Inclusions in these grades are extremely difficult to detect under 10x magnification. VVS1 diamonds have minute inclusions, while VVS2 diamonds have slightly larger inclusions, but both grades maintain exceptional clarity.
Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2): Inclusions in these grades are still challenging to see without magnification. VS1 diamonds have minor inclusions that are difficult to locate, while VS2 diamonds possess slightly larger inclusions that remain inconspicuous to the naked eye.
Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2): Inclusions in these categories are noticeable under 10x magnification but might not be immediately visible to the naked eye. SI1 diamonds have inclusions that are relatively easy to spot, while SI2 diamonds might have inclusions that can be detected more readily.
Included (I1, I2, and I3): Diamonds in these grades have inclusions that are visible to the naked eye, even without magnification. The I1 category generally features larger and more apparent inclusions, while the I2 and I3 categories indicate inclusions that might affect the diamond's transparency and overall appearance.
It's important to recognize that the visibility of inclusions can be influenced by various factors, including their size, location, and how well they blend with the diamond's facets. Diamonds with higher clarity grades (FL, IF, VVS) are exceptionally rare and come with premium price points. However, diamonds with lower clarity grades (SI and below) can still appear stunning to the naked eye, especially when well-cut, and might offer better value. The choice of clarity grade ultimately depends on individual preferences and the level of visual perfection desired in the diamond.
The journey to finding the perfect oval diamond is a meticulous yet rewarding endeavor. My son-in-law ended up purchasing a 2.33 carat, F color, VS1 diamond with an excellent cut and no fluorescence. It is pictured at the top of the article and yes, my daughter is a very lucky girl. He followed the 2 month salary rule and had been saving for awhile.
Happy diamond shopping! Let me know what you think in the comments.
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